The type of fencing that will best suit your property, budget, and horse will vary based on a number of factors.
- How large is the area to be fenced?
- How many horses will be together?
- Will there be horses on the other side of the fence?
- Does your herd composition change frequently or is it always the same horses every day?
- Do the horses stay in the same place or are they moved into a barn then out to pasture regularly?
- How big are your horses; do you have foals, minis, or ponies?
The smaller the area the better the fence needs to be. Cross fences always need to be stronger and safer than perimeter fences. Every time you change horses around they have to renegotiate the pecking order. Frequent changes in which horses are together or moving them back and forth from stalls to a shared turn out always puts more stress on a fence and increases the possibility of injury. Fencing decisions for smaller horses are different than for bigger ones.
There a number of basic fencing types. Here are some pros and cons for each.
Wire and Wood or T-post
T-post and wire fences are usually the most economical but are hazardous to horses. Barbed wire is always problematic, but so is smooth wire. Even with plastic t-post caps horses can impale themselves on t-posts and wire-cuts can cause severe injuries. One of my yearling colts stuck a t-post through his chest (he made a full recovery) and I witnessed a yearling filly kill herself on a t-post when visiting another ranch. Whenever possible, avoid wire and t-posts, especially on cross fences. If you can’t, then consider adding an electric component to keep your horses away from the fence itself. It is also important to use pipe braces, posts, and corners where needed to strengthen the fence and keep horses from pushing it over.
Wood
Wood is a viable option in some areas of the country, but not all. There is a lot of maintenance with wood fences and horses love to chew on them. If you go with wood be sure that the weight of a horse rubbing his hip on the fence isn’t pushing a rail away from a post but into a post. Keep rails far enough apart that a horse cannot catch his head between them. And horses also find wood fences make good scratching posts.
Molded Resin or Plastic
Plastic fences are better in some climates than others. Most folks either really love the look or really hate it. As far as the horses are concerned, just don’t get one where the material becomes brittle over time and exposure to the sun as the rails may become brittle, shatter, or splinter.
Pipe and Wire
Usually built with a top rail and rolled wire; v-mesh, non-climb, or field fencing. V-mesh is the safest but most expensive. If you are building paddocks or small pastures for valuable foals V-mesh is your best bet. Tiny hooves can get caught in the 2x4 openings in non-climb. Several of mine did over the years. The larger openings in field fencing allow horses to put hooves or legs through and become caught. Rolled wire and top rail keep horses from rubbing their manes and usually keep stray dogs out.
Pipe and Rail (or Cable)
Pipe rails make great fences. The gauge of the pipe determines how strong the fence will be. Keep rails far enough apart so a horse can put his head through and get it back out again if startled. To prevent an adult horse from putting his head between the rails the distance from the top of one rail to the bottom of the next cannot exceed six inches. The distance between the bottom rail and the ground needs to be short enough to prevent a horse from getting either his head and neck or hind legs under the fence while lying down. If you have foals or your horses rub their manes between rails you can always add non-climb or v-mesh later.
Electric Wire, Electric Tape, or Electric Rope
Electric fences are a great option for temporary use or to keep horses away from more dangerous fences. The technology for solar electric chargers and materials has really improved. Be sure to always hang plastic streamers from the fence about two feet apart when you install it to provide an additional visual barrier for your horses. Again, stay away from the wire and choose the wider tape or rope options instead.
No fence is perfect, but by making wise choices you can reduce regular maintenance, vet bills, and most important of all, keep your horse safe.
Lynn Baber - Lynn Baber, Christian writer specializing in leadership, relationships, and all things equine.
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